SHAMPOO BAR RECIPE

Shaved Shampoo Soap

I have used my handmade soap as a shampoo bar for 3 weeks and I have found that shampoo with handmade soap is really good even it is a bit tricky to use. If you do not shampoo right way, you will have heavy oily tangled hair left (and it is terrible!).

I have tried some different recipes (and had troubles too! some soaps did not go well with my hair.) and finally I have found my best shampoo bar recipe!


=HOW TO WASH HAIR WITH HANDMADE SOAP=

1. Shave soap bar and add hot water to dissolve.
2. Wet hair and massage scalp well to remove dirt.
3. Make plenty of bubble with soap and shampoo all over you hair. If it doesn't lather well, rinse,then shampoo again.
4. Rinse "REALLY" well with warm water. (Otherwise you'll have heavy wired hair..)
5. Then rinse with vinegar or citric acid dissolved in water.
6. Finally, rinse well with warm water again.

"LATHER WELL AND RINSE WELL" is the tip for shampooing with soap.


=RECIPE=
74%  Olive Oil
10%  Coconut Oil
10%  Canola Oil
6%  Castor Oil
LYE, WATER

Soap Qualities (thanks to SoapCalc)
Hardness - 21
Cleansing - 7
Conditioning - 77
Bubbly - 12
Creamy - 20


When I shampoo with this soap, my hair looks really different. I did not need any "adjustment time" that some people found in the beginning of shampoo with soap. From very first day, my hair shines and looks great. Other recipes such as 100% Olive Oil, 100% Coconut Oil soaps gave my hair dry and brittle and unmanageable. I have used expensive "organic shampoo" purchased at chemist, it did dry my hair too. Now, I use my soap and no dry hair anymore!

Personally, I do not want to leave my soap in the bathroom, I shave soaps and store in a container, and melt it before each use.

ORGANIC CALENDULA OLIVE SOAP

Organic Calendula Olive Soap

Olive oil (Olea Europaea) is rich in vitamin A and E, minerals and natural fatty acids, an extremely moisturizing and soothing and healing to all skin types. Olive oil is also rich in antioxidants, it prevents skin aging such as wrinkles and fine lines. Olive oil is the most popular vegetable oil in soap making, it makes very hard bar and mild cleansing soap after cure.

Calendula is considered beneficial in reducing inflammation and promoting wound healing. It is used to treat a variety of skin conditions such as eczema, acne and dry sensitive skin.

ORGANIC CALENDULA OLIVE SOAP is made with Shea Butter for additional moisturizing and added small amount of Coconut Oil and Rice Bran Oil for extra creamy lather and harder soap bar. This soap is soothing, moisturizing and gentle for all skin types.
.


=RECIPE=
Olive Oil, Shea Butter, Rice Bran Oil, Coconut Oil, Organic Calendula Petals, LYE, WATER

Soap Qualities (thanks to SoapCalc)
Hardness -27
Cleansing - 7
Conditioning -71
Bubbly - 7
Creamy -20


=COLD PROCESS SOAP MAKING=

1. Melt Shea Butter and Coconut Oil with double boiler. (I do not like micro wave!)
2. Make Lye Solution. Always use caution.
3. Cool Oil and Lye Solution. (60-70℃, It's okay if it is still hot)
4. Mix Oil and Lye slowly, do not make bubble in the Oil Mix.
5. Use stick blender until get light trace. Do not keep it on all way through!
6. Add Organic Calendula Petals to soap mix.
7. Pour into mold and topped with Calendula Petals.
8. Cover with towel to keep warm.
9. Leave for half a day or until soap gets hard enough to take out of mold.
10. Cut soap and leave for a couple of  month to cure.

=TIPS=

Do not be bothered to check temperature of Oil and Lye Solution. The recipe includes more soft oil, you can add Lye Solution immediately after make it (when it is still quite hot). When I put more hard oil, Blend Oil is quite warm to melt all the oil so I just let Lye Solution get a bit cooler (about 60℃, when touch the container by hand, you feel a bit hot).

Use stick blender for few seconds and hand blend with stick blender, repeat this to avoid getting trace quickly which causes air hole in the soap!

Keep soap warm but not too hot. To go through saponification, soap needs to be warm but hot. Too hot soap will get crack on the surface.

#261114

ORGANIC CHAMOMILE OLIVE SOAP

Organic Chamomile Olive Soap

Olive oil (Olea Europaea) is rich in vitamin A and E, minerals and natural fatty acids, an extremely moisturizing and soothing and healing to all skin types. Olive oil is also rich in antioxidants, it prevents skin aging such as wrinkles and fine lines. Olive oil is the most popular vegetable oil in soap making, it makes very hard bar and mild cleansing soap after cure.

Chamomile (Matricaria Recutita) is widely used in children and adults for a variety of health conditions such as sleeplessness, anxiety, and stomach problems. For skin, soothes skin rashes (including eczema), minor burns and sunburn and reduces skin inflammation.

ORGANIC CHAMOMILE OLIVE SOAP is made with Shea Butter for additional moisturizing and added small amount of Coconut Oil and Rice Bran Oil for extra creamy lather and harder soap bar. This soap is soothing, moisturizing and gentle for all skin types.
.


=RECIPE=
Olive Oil, Shea Butter, Rice Bran Oil, Coconut Oil, Organic Chamomile powder, LYE, WATER

Soap Qualities (thanks to SoapCalc)
Hardness -27
Cleansing - 7
Conditioning -71
Bubbly - 7
Creamy -20


=COLD PROCESS SOAP MAKING=

1. Melt Shea Butter and Coconut Oil with double boiler. (I do not like micro wave!)
2. Make Lye Solution. Always use caution.
3. Cool Oil and Lye Solution. (60-70℃, It's okay if it is still hot)
4. Mix Oil and Lye slowly, do not make bubble in the Oil Mix.
5. Use stick blender until get light trace. Do not keep it on all way through!
6. Add Organic Chamomile powder to soap mix.
7. Pour into mold.
8. Cover with towel to keep warm.
9. Leave for half a day or until soap gets hard enough to take out of mold.
10. Cut soap and leave for a couple of  month to cure.

=TIPS=

Do not be bothered to check temperature of Oil and Lye Solution. The recipe includes more soft oil, you can add Lye Solution immediately after make it (when it is still quite hot). When I put more hard oil, Blend Oil is quite warm to melt all the oil so I just let Lye Solution get a bit cooler (about 60℃, when touch the container by hand, you feel a bit hot).

Use stick blender for few seconds and hand blend with stick blender, repeat this to avoid getting trace quickly which causes air hole in the soap!

Keep soap warm but not too hot. To go through saponification, soap needs to be warm but hot. Too hot soap will get crack on the surface.

#251114

MACADAMIA SHEA SOAP

Macadamia Oil and Shea Butter Soap

Macadamia Nut Oil is very similar to human sebum and absorbs quickly without leaving an oily or greasy. It moisturizes my skin while balancing oil production and makes hair shiny, silky and moisturized.Macadamia Nut Oil contains one of the highest sources of Palmitoleic Fatty Acids which is vital for delaying skin aging. This is why Macadamia is the perfect inclusion for anti aging formulas.

Shea Butter is all natural vitamin A cream. Vitamin A in Shea Butter is improving many skin conditions such as wrinkles, blemishes, very dry skin. There are many properties in Shea Butter to treat skin allergies, insect bites, sunburns etc.. In soap making, Shea Butter gives moisturizing, soothing properties and makes creamy, stable lather and hardness.

MACADAMIA SHEA SOAP is rich in moisturizing, anti-aging properties and nourish and brings natural glow to the skin. Macadamia Oil gives luxurious creamy lather to the soap. This soap is good for shampoo bar too.

Oil Blend and Lye Solution

=RECIPE=
Macadamia Nut Oil, Shea Butter, Rice Bran Oil, Coconut Oil, LYE, WATER

Soap Qualities (thanks to SoapCalc)
Hardness -29
Cleansing - 7
Conditioning -56
Bubbly - 7
Creamy -22

Mix Oil and Lye

=COLD PROCESS SOAP MAKING=

1. Melt Shea Butter and Coconut Oil with double boiler. (I do not like micro wave!)
2. Make Lye Solution. Always use caution.
3. Cool Oil and Lye Solution. (60-70℃, It's okay if it is still hot)
4. Mix Oil and Lye slowly, do not make bubble in the Oil Mix.
5. Use stick blender until get light trace. Do not keep it on all way through!
6. Pour into mold.
7. Cover with towel to keep warm.
8. Leave for half a day or until soap gets hard enough to take out of mold.
9. Cut soap and leave for a month to cure.

Soap Mix in the Mold

=TIPS=

Do not be bothered to check temperature of Oil and Lye Solution. The recipe includes more soft oil, you can add Lye Solution immediately after make it (when it is still quite hot). When I put more hard oil, Blend Oil is quite warm to melt all the oil so I just let Lye Solution get a bit cooler (about 60℃, when touch the container by hand, you feel a bit hot).

Use stick blender for few seconds and hand blend with stick blender, repeat this to avoid getting trace quickly which causes air hole in the soap!

Keep soap warm but not too hot. To go through saponification, soap needs to be warm but hot. Too hot soap will get crack on the surface.

the Soap After Cut

#171114

AVOCADO SHEA SOAP

Avocado and Shea Butter Soap

Avocado Oil is not as popular as other soap making oils but is a very beneficial for skin and scalp care. Avocado Oil is rich in antioxidants and proteins which repair damaged skin and treat aged skin and scalp. I think this oil is ideal for a shampoo bar and as superfatting oil.

Shea Butter is all natural vitamin A cream. Vitamin A in Shea Butter is improving many skin conditions such as wrinkles, blemishes, very dry skin. There are many properties in Shea Butter to treat skin allergies, insect bites, sunburns etc.. In soap making, Shea Butter gives moisturizing, soothing properties and makes creamy, stable lather and hardness.  

AVOCADO SHEA SOAP is soothing and moisturizing skin, and also maintains scalp health. This has greeny-vegetably fresh smell which is like freshly cut avocado. Added small amount of Rice Bran Oil and Coconut Oil for harder soap.

Mix Oil and Lye

=RECIPE=
Avocado Oil, Shea Butter, Rice Bran Oil, Coconut Oil, LYE, WATER

Soap Qualities (thanks to SoapCalc)
Hardness -33
Cleansing - 7
Conditioning -61
Bubbly - 7
Creamy -26

Soap in the mold

=COLD PROCESS SOAP MAKING=

1. Melt Shea Butter and Coconut Oil with double boiler. (I do not like micro wave!)
2. Make Lye Solution. Always use caution.
3. Cool Oil and Lye Solution. (60-70℃, It's okay if it is still hot)
4. Mix Oil and Lye slowly, do not make bubble in the Oil Mix.
5. Use stick blender until get light trace. Do not keep it on all way through!
6. Pour into mold.
7. Cover with towel to keep warm.
8. Leave for half a day or until soap gets hard enough to take out of mold.
9. Cut soap and leave for a month to cure.

Sometimes Check the Soap

Cover the Mold with Tea Towel

Cut with My Handmade Cutter!

=TIPS=

Do not be bothered to check temperature of Oil and Lye Solution. The recipe includes more soft oil, you can add Lye Solution immediately after make it (when it is still quite hot). When I put more hard oil, Blend Oil is quite warm to melt all the oil so I just let Lye Solution get a bit cooler (about 60℃, when touch the container by hand, you feel a bit hot).

Use stick blender for few seconds and hand blend with stick blender, repeat this to avoid getting trace quickly which causes air hole in the soap!

Keep soap warm but not too hot. To go through saponification, soap needs to be warm but hot. Too hot soap will get crack on the surface.

 #121114

SWEET ALMOND SHEA SOAP

Sweet Almond Oil and Shea Butter soap!

Sweet Almond (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis) Oil is one of the most used oils in skincare and soap making. Moisturizing; softening; fast penetrating; rich in essential fatty acids & vitamins A & E. It is the perfect ingredient for stressed out sensitive skin.

When you talk about the quality of soap, composition of fatty acid in the oils comes first but also you can think of other components such as unsaponifiables. Generally, soap made with olive oil is very moisturizing. Yes, I agree if the soap is superfatted 8% or more. Washing face with Olive Oil Soap (5% superfat) is very refreshing, after rinse with water, no greasiness left on the skin. I actually recommend Olive Oil Soap to oily skin people.

How about Almond Oil Soap? It makes your skin very smooth and leaves really thin layer (of oil? I'm not sure what it is, but really good!) on the skin. There are definitely differences between Olive Oil Soap and Almond Oil Soap in feeling on the skin even their fatty acid compositions are very very similar.

I made this soap with Sweet Almond Oil and Shea Butter as main oil, adding Coconut Oil and Rice Bran Oil for hardness and bubble. Unscented, no options. This is moisturizing, soothing, very gentle, slightly smells like nuts!

Blended Oil and Lye Water

=RECIPE=
Sweet Almond Oil, Shea Butter, Rice Bran Oil, Coconut Oil, LYE, WATER

Soap Qualities (thanks to SoapCalc)
Hardness - 26
Cleansing - 7
Conditioning - 70
Bubbly - 7
Creamy - 19

Soap in Mold

=COLD PROCESS SOAP MAKING=

1. Melt Shea Butter and Coconut Oil with double boiler. (I do not like micro wave!)
2. Make Lye Solution. Always use caution.
3. Cool Oil and Lye Solution. (60-70℃)
4. Mix Oil and Lye slowly, do not make bubble in the Oil Mix.
5. Use stick blender until get light trace.
6. Pour into mold.
7. Cover with towel to keep warm.
8. Leave for half a day or until soap gets hard enough to take out of mold.
9. Cut soap and leave for a month to cure.

Soap at Gel Phase

=TIPS=

Do not be bothered to check temperature of Oil and Lye Solution. The recipe include more soft oil, you can add Lye Solution immediately after make it (when it is still quite hot). When I put more hard oil, Blend Oil is quite warm to melt all the oil so I just let Lye Solution get a bit cooler (about 60℃, when touch the container by hand, you feel a bit hot).

Use stick blender for few seconds and hand blend with stick blender, repeat this to avoid getting trace quickly which causes air hole in the soap!

Keep soap warm but not too hot. To go through saponification, soap needs to be warm but hot. Too hot soap will get crack on the surface.

#091114

DAILY BATH SOAP

I like this blue pattern!

My partner loves soaps using in the shower and he uses more than 2 soaps a month. Since I make soaps, I do not want to buy commercial soaps any more. I made cheaper soap for him because he uses a lot of them (and does not care so much about quality!) I used Grapeseed Oil and Canola Oil for base, Beeswax and Palm Oil for hardness.

After poured into mold, I did not keep the soap warm enough to complete saponification. After 24 hours, the soap was still wet and soft but my partner wanted to touch and cut soap, this soap was for him so I let him. It was cut alright but definitely not alright as a soap! I was not sure what to do but only one thing I could think of was cook soap in the oven. About 70 to 80 ℃ for 15 mins, turned off and left soaps in the oven a hour more.

Sweating a lot!!

During this cooking time, some soaps went gel phase. Some got softer and change its shape. When I open the oven, I just started laughing because all the soaps were so sweat!! It looked very funny for me.

It was about 12 or 13??

 I touched the sweat and I felt greasy or slippy on my fingers. I thought it might be high in alkaline so I tested. Yes, it was. I lost my finger print a bit but not burned at all.

After cure a couple of weeks, the soaps are getting pretty good. I made wave in the soap and I am very happy how it turns out!


<INGREDIENTS>
Grapeseed Oil
Canola Oil
Palm Oil
Beeswax
Yuzu Fragrance Oil
Ultramarine Blue

#311014

SOAP FAILURE - AIR HOLE AND UNEVEN SOAP -

In my very short soap making experience and gathered information from internet, I have found some tips to avoid soap making failure. I am showing my failed soaps and consideration on them.
日本語の記事はコチラ [ せっけん　失敗談　- 小さい穴と不均一なせっけん - ]

left and center have air hole and right one has uneven texture in the middle of the soap

+++ AIR HOLE +++

Another soaps with air hole

This happens because soap batter gets too thick to pour into mold. Then why it gets so thick? It is TEMPERATURE. I mixed blended oil (Olive, Coconut, Rice Bran, Palm, Castor) and lye solution in high temperature. If you do not put any options, it may be okay. You do not take time to pour when it gets trace but if you want to add color, herbs or making swirl, you have a trouble here. Saponification has to go not so fast.

I made two different soap from same soap batter, so it took time to pour the second one (picture above). The first one (picture on the right) I mixed shaved lemongrass soap to very thick soap batter and got many small air holes.



+++ UNEVEN SOAP +++
It was my laziness, I did not melt solid oil fully before mixed with lye solution. It is solved easy, DON'T BE LAZY!!

SOAP FAILURE - SODA ASH -

In my very short soap making experience and gathered information from internet, I have found some tips to avoid soap making failure. I am showing my failed soaps and consideration on them.
日本語の記事はコチラ [せっけん　失敗談　- ソーダ灰 -]

+++ SODA ASH +++
Soda ash is harmless and mostly happens on the surface of the cold process soaps.
I think controlling temperature during mixing lye and oil, through gel phase is the matter to avoid soda ash. It needs right temperature to saponify thoroughly then the soaps will be solid, smooth on the surface without soda ash.

Ash happened along pink swirl and surface

This soap is made with Olive oil 70%, Palm oil 20%, Coconut oil 10% and herbs (lemon peel and licorice etc.) and pink colorant.

To dissolve Palm oil and Coconut oil, blended oil was warmed up at 35℃ or over. And I did not let lye solution get cooler before mixing with blended oil. To make pink soap for swirl, mix pink ultramarine with small amount of blended oil and when soap batter got trace, mixed pink oil and the soap batter. It was like  thick pink oil rather than pink soap.
 Soap batter got very warm and trace quickly. Poured into mold and covered with towel, and left in the unheated oven.

Ash on surface and waved on the top (Alien Brain!)

This soap is made with Olive oil 75% Coconut oil 25% and herbs and fragrance. To dissolve Coconut oil, blended oil was warmed up and mixed with hot lye solution. It got trace within 10 mins, after poring into mold covered with towel and left in the unheated oven.


Both soaps are very solid and look good though, I want no ash and Alien Brain on my soap. Temperature Control is the key to avoid soda ash, I think.

MOISTURE SOAPS - ORANGE LEMONGRASS & LAVENDER

Soaps in the mold

I made two version of Moisturizing Soaps, scented with Orange Sweet and Lavender. As I use Rice Bran Oil for moisturize, color of soaps are golden.
When I poured into mold, I could not see violet color at all in Lavender Soap.

Moisture Soaps, Orange Lemongrass and Lavender

But after cut and cure, beautiful lavender color has appeared! I mixed Lemongrass soap into Orange Sweet one, it shows nice little orange grain in the soaps. I still need further TRAINING to cut soaps, don't I !?

#201014-OL

#201014-LV

にほんブログ村

100% OLIVE OIL SOAP UNSCENTED & CITRUS

This is my second unscented 100% Olive Oil Soap making, the first one did not go well then I rebatched it. Two months of experience pushed me to go forward and I decided to make one again. I was not confident but still wanted to have 100% Olive Oil Soap for myself.

Lining mold, separate in the middle for making two different soaps

Oil and Orange peel paste and essential oils

 Two different soaps in one time, unscented and citrus soap! Base is the same 100% Olive Oil, prepare orange peel paste and essential oil blend.

Just after mix lye and water

Make lye solution with care, I always make it outdoor.  In the photo, you can see white lye solution, it is  fume coming out of lye water, it gets hot (similar to boiling and steam comes out). You should stay away from this fume or you get burned throat by strong alkaline. However this heat helps dissolving lye to water completely. So I stir only a little (about 15 seconds) and leave for a while. When it gets cooler (about 60℃) I mix lye solution and oil. 

Just after mix oil and lye water

Pour lye water into oil and mix with stick blender. 100% Olive Oil takes more time to get trace.

After 15 mins, got light trace

 After 15 mins mixing with stick blender, it got light trace. I thought it would take more than 30 mins, so it was actually quick.

Pour into mold separately

Half of soap mix without any options, pour into half part of mold.
I have not taken any photo during making citrus soap mix.. I made thin layer in the citrus soap with orange peel paste and swirl on the top.

10 hours later it already got hard

10 hours later, it got hard already. I also thought it would take more than 24 hours, it was really quick. But it was still warm and I was not sure that it was hard enough to cut, I left over night to cut the soap.

100% Olive Oil Soaps!

 After 18 hours, I removed soaps from mold and cut. They were quite firm than I expected. It turned really nice and smells gorgeous in citrus soap! Surprisingly, unscented soaps do not smell at all. I am really happy with these soaps and I cannot wait to use them!! (It will be next year though..) One thing I need to improve is, cutting soaps.. All pieces are different sizes!

#121014-UN

#121014-CT

にほんブログ村

HANDMADE LOAF SOAP WOOD MOLD

Handmade soap mold

I made my own wooden soap mold which makes maximum 1.2 kg soap. I can make smaller batch because I can change the size of mold easily.

I have used 500-600g of oil to make soap so far, I am using more than 1kg of oil this time! It is exciting and scary at the same time.

I am making 100% Olive Oil Soap (I won't be rebatching it!!) and Olive Oil Soap with Citrus. 






にほんブログ村

REBATCH OLIVE OIL SOAP

My first olive oil soap

Rebatching soap is the way you can save your FAILED SOAP unless it is not lye calculate mistake. My first handmade soap is 100% olive oil soap and they look very nice but smell really oily. After having read many many articles and made myself few batches of soaps, I  have found out one fact, that unpleasant smell goes away eventually. Some of my soaps without fragrance do not smell nice first couple of weeks but apparently it is fading. I thought my soaps are not good to use for body or face wash (I mean I do not want to use bad smell soap), I decided to rebatch it.

Warm up soap pieces

HOW TO REBATCH SOAP

1. Cut soaps in small pieces. Mill or shave is better way to make soaps in small.
2. Melt in double boiled pot.
3. Add options as you like.
4. Pour into mold and leave 24 hours.
5. Remove from mold and cure.

Look like mash potato!

 I add 2 or 3 table spoon of water to soap and cover with foil and wait for a hour. Yes, it takes long time! Gently stir and add Anti Stress Essential Oil Blend. Soap became like thick mash potato. At this point, do not stress out to mix soap well it is okay to leave some chunk of soap. Pour into mold and leave for 24 hours.

Cure for few weeks

I actually like this method, soap looks different and options you add in this process will not be affected by harsh alkaline such as ph sensitive colors. I cannot wait to use them!

 #R310814

にほんブログ村

100% OLIVE OIL SOAP UNSCENTED

Most popular oil to make soaps

This soap is made with only Olive
oil and lye and water, and my very first Handmade Soap!
As many soap making website say, making Olive oil soap (often refer as Castile Soap) takes long time to get trace and cure. Some people do not recommend to make olive oil soap as your first batch but I cannot resist making it! Because it is all natural (this is why I want to make my own soap) and I just need to buy olive oil and lye and distill water. So simple and no need to spend to buy more raw materials. At that time I only had a little bit of tea tree oil at home (far not enough to add fragrance) so I decided to go without it.

My first soap making tool!

  

Olive oil and lye water

 
Mix olive oil and lye solution at 40℃ (not accurate though). I did not use stick blender this time just mix with whisk. It took more than over night to get trace. First couple hours, I mixed every 30 mins, and left over night and pour into mold in the morning.

Gel phase? No, oil layer on the top..

 After a half day, I saw oil was separated in the mold. Since I did not know what to do, I just left like that for next 1 week.














 

Wipe oil and remove soaps from the mold

After 1 week, I just wiped off oil on the top of the soaps and remove from the mold. They were still soft but I could not wait to see my first soaps! They look nice and smooth on the surface but smelled really oily. I did not like it at all! I tried to look up internet how olive oil should smell but I could not fined any articles. I thought it is fail, should have added some fragrance so I did "rebatch" afterwards.

#310814

にほんブログ村